ITALY - Carmine Superiore - Living in a REAL medieval village!

Sunday morning we were up early for a trek to the train station to catch a train from Venice to Melon. We had a layover and then a train to a town whose name I don't remember.  We then caught a taxi to Valano, bought groceries and were dropped off at the base of the mountain. 

Now when I say mountain, I mean mountain.  We were were going to spend a week in this medieval village. 

Carmine Superiore is a beautifully preserved village of medieval origin a short distance from Cannobio. It can be reached only on foot, via a pleasant path from the hamlet of Carmine Inferiore below it on the lakeside road.

The village, perched on a rocky spur high above the western shore of Lake Maggiore, comprises a handful of stone houses clustered round the church of St Gotthard (14th century), from where there is a stunning view over the lake and the mountains of Lombardy.

Now when they say "reached only on foot" they aren't joking.  It felt like we were walking/hiking straight up the hill.  Everyone of us were caring our backpacks, bedding and groceries.  What an adventure!

Carmine Superiore

The Hills Von Trap then trekked up the hill to the village of Carmine Superiore. We were quite a sight. carrying our back packs, luggage and 6 bags of groceries.  What a beautiful place. It was like going back in time, literally.

Carmine Superiore Village

San Gottardo Church in the village
Built between 1332 and 1401, San Gottardo is a treasure-house of valuable art works dating from the 15^th and 16^th centuries. The frescoes in the interior as well as those on the outside walls are mostly the work of the Maestro di Carzoneso, and in common with all the churches adhering to the Ambrosian tradition, depict scenes from the Bible. 

Thomas was told the key was hidden in the wall. We were all looking and feeling along the walls trying to find the key. After about 30 minutes a key was found. Then we had to determine which door did it fit. Once inside we had to find the key to the other place and turn on the electricity. The larger place had electricity, but not the place where we were to sleep.  So here we were in this 1000 year old building, with walls 2 feet thick with incredible views and no electric and thus no warm water for a shower. Talk about going back in time!

Everyone feeling the walls for the hidden key.

This is not a place where typical tourist go.  You have to know someone in order to rent the home.  The home we rented belongs to the nephews of a German woman who had passed away. It had all her belongings, books old photo albums, and such in the "attic".  What fun we had exploring.  The girls, Sara and I.  We found so many interesting things about the past.  Most of which was written in either German or Italian, but still it was fun and fascinating. 

We spent the first evening visiting with the German neighbors. Sharing wine, food and conversation. I turned in early so I could have outdoor lighting to shower by and of course the water was cold. In my mind I could image being back in time. It is hard to describe what it feels like being in a place like this. Hopefully the pictures will transport you there.


Now when at Carmine Superiore you look around and see signs showing distances, distances in minutes to the next little village. Here you walk everywhere. Good hardy people live in this area.


Day 2 we hiked down the hill "30 minutes" and around the curve and then back up. All in all it took 2 hours.  The people who put up the signage obviously walk faster than we do or are much younger.

T enjoying coffee on the ledge.

Day 3 we have electricity !

Living in a medieval village without electricity was a bit more medieval than we had planned on. 

Day 4, The day was great! T and I left around 8 am and hiked down to Cannero, only a short "50 minute" walk.  NOT.. It  took us about 1 1/2 hours to get there, but oh what a hike it was.  Hiking along old Roman roads viewing the lake and old stone homes along the way.  WOW!!   Once we got to Cannero, we found a little place to have coffee and sit along the lake and just relax and regain our strength.  We wandered about the town a bit found the "mini market", bought some wine, bread and cheese and headed back up the hill. All in all it wasn't a bad hike only gone 5 hours. Walking in nature here is amazing. The old and new stone houses. People living on the hills and having to walk up everyday. Such a different way of life.

Cannero Rievera

Path to Cannero

Family time outside the church

That evening a storm came in and we lost power. We burst out laughing!  The power was only off briefly.

Day 5

Sara and I hiked down to Cannero to get bread milk and a few other items. While in Cannero she and I visited an old church and a grotto.  What another amazing day!

Church of San Giorgio Martire- Cannero Italy

Grotto behind the church

Out last night was wonderful. We gathered with the other people living here out on the open area outside the church. Children sang and performed in various languages: Italian, German and English. Lots a fun and laughter was had by all. 

To say the least this week was memorable. Sheep wandering through the streets. Hiking through the woods and to the nearby town for groceries, sleeping on a bed that felt like a brick, no electricity for 3 out of 5 days, watching the children play, meeting the neighbors, attempting to speak in various languages. We won't soon forget the time we had. Our evenings here in Carmine were so relaxing.  Though life here on the mountain can be hard, I think I could visit here for a week every year and reconnect with myself and nature.

1 last photo with the grand children